The Society's 33rd AGM, 12th November 2019
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After the business of the meeting, we were treated to a marvellous talk by Professor Warwick Rodwell, consultant archaeologist to Westminster Abbey, on the fruits of recent excavations and finds. Amongst these was a Roman sarcophagus of Valerius Amandinus which instead of being evidence of Roman occupation on Thorney island, was almost certainly an existing tomb moved from Roman Londinium. The occupant of which was moved out to provide a resting place for an important Anglo-saxon person in Westminster (possibly Abbot Aelfwig c.1020) - the lid being re-carved with a crucifix.
Professor Rodwell described that the Pyx Chamber in the East Cloister Undercroft was used to measure the purity of gold and silver (now done at the Goldsmith’s Hall) and is the earliest room in London dating back to Edward the Confessor who died in 1066. The Pyx Chapel altar somehow survived the Dissolution of the Monasteries probably because of its association with gold and silver.
We heard that the small door near the Chapter House, marked 'The oldest door in the country', had been dated by Professor Rodwell and a colleague back to Edward the Confessor. This was done partly by dendrology to age the wood panels and a study of historic ironwork. By examining bolt and tack holes, the original style could be concluded to have had further ironwork and the whole door covered with hide and probably painted red ochre. A fine door indeed.
Whilst clearing out 'rubbish' swept under the floor of the Triforium in preparation for the Queen's Jubillee Galleries, finds included a C17th Jack of Hearts playing card, a screwed up Virginian tobacco wrapper branded the 'Nag's Head, King Street, Westminster' from 1685-90. Many other topics and finds were described, including Viking remains. Professor Rodwell also touched on the history of the Cornonation Chair and the Stone of Scone, which traditionally monarchs would sit directly upon before a wooden seat was added in the C18th and finally his own nine year research into the medieval mosaic pavements in the Abbey, the only ones of their kind outside Italy. His recent book on this project can be found here: https://amzn.to/2pdZpBs
We are most grateful to Professor Rodwell for a memorable and stimulating talk.
The Society's 33rd AGM, 12th November 2019
Autumn-Winter 2019 Newsletter
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Visit to the Palace of Westminster & Jewel Tower - October 2019
All Thorney Island visits are full of interest and our specially organised tour of The Palace of Westminster was as challenging as it was fascinating since it coincided with the first day of two weeks of protests by Extinction Rebellion. The streets and bridges around the Palace were occupied by protesters who laid down in the streets, made speeches, chanted and drummed. Loudly.
Our tour began in the grand medieval Westminster Hall and we looked up at the carved angels 'holding up the ceiling' and learned that their faces were modelled on the carpenters' own wives and sweethearts. So many important historic events had taken place in the Hall including the meeting of Parliament and Simon de Montfort who led the rebels who defeated King Charles I in 1265.
We learned that the Parliamentary Estate has one thousand rooms, and that the architect Charles Barry gave the trade mark of the portcullis to Parliament. Jostling with school groups we visited both the Commons and the Lords chambers, passing through the 'nay' lobby and saw where we can petition our MP in the Central Lobby. After the Second World War the Commons needed to be rebuilt and the Prime Minister, Winston Churchill insisted that not only should the bomb-damaged arch leading into the chamber be retained, but that the design of the chamber should be 'intimate and adversarial'. We wonder whether he would do the same thing now? The coat of arms designed by the children of the murdered MP Jo Cox, hangs alone on the wooden panelling behind the seat where Jo Cox sat as a back-bencher. A moment when we all reflected.
What would be the same for a Prime Minister was for all MPs - the Division Bell which rings across the parliamentary estate, giving 8 minutes to get to the Commons to vote. Said to be the time it takes for a PM 'to walk briskly' from Downing Street. Another quirky custom takes place to commemorate the Gunpowder Plot. In 1605 the plot was uncovered under the Princes Chamber and each year before the Opening of Parliament a search is made to make sure there is no repeat of the plot.
We heard so many details about the history of the buildings and finished by seeing the statue to which suffragettes chained themselves in pursuit of the vote and finally the inspiring art installation in recognition of the many organisations who fought for women's rights in the 20th century. The installation lights up with the ebb and flow of the Thames and makes up the symbol of the portcullis. A fitting end way to end an illuminating tour.
Then off across the road to The Jewel Tower, the only other medieval building of the Palace, built between 1365-6, under the direction of William of Sleaford and Henry de Yevele, to house the personal treasure of King Edward III. We admired the wooden and stone roof and walls of the ground floor room and up the tiny staircase to further rooms above. With thanks to all those who made these tours possible.
Thorney Tales (18) The Buxton Memorial Fountain
One of the gems of Victoria Tower Gardens (VTG) is the Buxton Memorial Fountain built in Gothic revival style to celebrate the passing of the Slavery Abolition Act of 1833. It was constructed, and partly designed, by Charles Buxton the son of Thomas Buxton who was William Wilberforce’s designated successor to carry the anti-slavery movement to a successful conclusion. The Act, which came into force in 1834, made the ownership of slaves throughout the British colonies illegal.
The monument itself originated with the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain Association, which wanted to build “a costly and handsome fountain in Palace Yard”. Buxton took the idea over and in 1865 it was first placed at the far end of Parliament Square where apparently it created a dramatic presence for anyone coming from St James’s Park towards Parliament.
When Parliament Square was reconstructed in 1949 as part of the plans for the Festival of Britain and designed in a classical mode, it was felt that a Gothic fountain would be out of place and also unfashionable as tastes had changed.
In 1949 Herbert Morrison, deputy Prime Minister, is believed to have been the first to suggest it could be located in VTG but it was kept in storage until 1957 when Parliament eventually decided to place it there.
Viscount Simon described the anti-slavery legislation as “one of the greatest Parliamentary events in our history”. Few would disagree with that even though Parliament had been complicit until the movement got underway. Some MPs, such as Sir James Penny of Liverpool (later unintentionally immortalised in the Beatles’s song Penny Lane) strongly resisted the movement. In 1792 Penny was given a silver bowl by the City of Liverpool for defending the slave trade before a Commons committee.
The memorial is octagonal in shape with eight bronze figures representing past rulers of England including Britons, Danes, Saxons and Normans and ending with Queen Victoria.
At the time it was thought fitting to be placed in VTG because of the deep connection to Parliament which, as one observer noted “cleansed the country of its terrible inheritance of the slave trade”. This is one of the reasons The Thorney Island Society has advocated that the proposed Holocaust Memorial be sited somewhere else nearby rather than in VTG because there is no direct link with Parliament as there is with the Buxton Memorial.
Thorney Tales (18) The Buxton Memorial Fountain
Mission: Invertebrate, The Green Park - August 2019
Rare breed sheep have grazed a set-aside wild meadow area in The Green Park for the last week along with a rare breed Dexter miniature cow called Twiglet. The livestock belong to Mudchute Farm on the Isle of Dogs and are transported daily to their central London pasture where they are hugely popular with visitors and perform good work fertilising and spreading seed. Tom from Mudchute explained how their arrival was timed after the flowering and setting seed of the meadow for maximum efficiency in attracting invertebrates. This is the third year of the grazing project and there has been a visable increase in the numbers of flying and other insects but a more in depth audit would be carried out next year. Another meadow area for wild flowers is located near Hyde Park Corner which we had seen in flower during our Tree Walk in May but at this time of year was short following one of its thrice yearly mows. Many thanks to Tom and the Royal Parks' Mission: Invertebrate team for their work to enrich the bio-diversity of this challenging park with no flowerbeds.
Mission: Invertebrate, The Green Park - August 2019
Tour of Buckingham Palace Gardens - August 2019
Members of the Thorney Island Society have been blessed with many splendid visits this year but none was looked forward to more than our trip to the gardens of Buckingham Palace. We were particularly fortunate to be shown around by Mark Lane, the Head Gardener, who freely shared his encyclopaedic knowledge of gardens assisted by his deputy, Clare.
As the tour began, we learned we were standing on what was once part of the four acres of mulberry garden that James I had planted in the early 1600s as part of his plan to create a new silk industry in Britain. Sadly, he chose the wrong sort of mulberry not eaten by silkworms and what could have been a major new industry bit the dust.
But the gardens still have a strong connection with this wonderful tree as the National Mulberry Collection is housed here in the gardens with 40 different taxa. None of them are direct survivors of James I’s efforts except one has been grown from a cutting of the famous heritage mulberry at Charlton House which is believed to have been planted at the behest of James I.
Mr Lane then walked us by the 156 metre long herbaceous border bristling with colourful plants and shrubs punctuated by an occasional banana plant and leading to 100 plane trees. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert planted two of these trees, though no-one knows which was which.
Among other highlights were an avenue of Indian chestnut trees which flower a month later than the Horse Chestnut and a lovingly tendered rose garden beyond a subtly camouflaged camomile lawn. There is a fine sundial nearby which was moved after a television programme in which David Attenborough pointed out to The Queen that its position then was too much in the shade.
The gardens used to have a hundred elms which were all lost when Dutch elm disease destroyed them - but a new disease-free variety is now being planted.
Past the lovely lake with two islands much loved by dragonflies, damselflies and insects. Pollen producing flowers are encouraged to thrive in the garden to provide a source of nectar for bees living in the garden’s hives. Almost 200 jars of honey have already been produced this year. There is also a tennis court where Fred Perry played against the Duke of York, later George VI (who also played in the doubles at Wimbledon).
We had a very pleasant tea afterwards on the long terrace of the Palace itself which is open for visitors during the Summer Opening of the Palace.
Our deepest thanks to Her Majesty The Queen for granting permission, and to Mr Lane and his team for organising such a delightful afternoon.
From Beer to the Bard - A Victoria Walk by Anthony Davis - July 2019
Anthony Davis, a Westminster guide and fellow of the Society of Antiquaries treated fellow TI members to a fascinating walk around the western hinterland of Thorney Island, when the threatened torrential rain mercifully held off.
Starting from St James’s Park station we soon learned about the complicated history of a house at the end of Queen Anne’s Gate which was owned by Jeremy Bentham and housed the family of John Stuart Mill. It looks out onto the back of what was John Milton‘s house and garden, the entrance to which was in Petty France.
After an interesting description of the wonderful houses in Queen Anne’s Gate we walked down to 55 Broadway where he spent some time extolling the magnificence of this very special building with sculptures by Epstein and Henry Moore embedded into the stonework.
Among other highlights were details of the history of Caxton Hall and the sculptural heads on a frieze above the door which hardly any of us had noticed before. These included one of Shakespeare which served as a fitting introduction to the stunning courtyard garden at the back of the St James's Court Hotel which includes a wonderful - and very long - frieze in terracotta of key scenes from Shakespeare’s plays. It is presumed that it must have been made at the fabled Royal Doulton works in Lambeth but the company has no record of it.
We ended our walk in Cardinal Place, once the site of the original Watneys Stag Brewery until the early 60's.
It is not easy to tell Thorney Island members about their own territory but Anthony succeeded again and again, giving us lots of new information. Our sincere thanks to him for a very successful walk.
From Beer to the Bard - A Victoria Walk by Anthony Davis - July 2019
Special Tour of Westminster Abbey - July 2019
The highlight of our visit to Westminster Abbey was access to the Jerusalem Chamber which is part of the Dean’s private quarters and rarely open to anyone. This actual room, still much as it was, where Henry lV died and which Shakespeare conjured up in Henry lV Part ll.
After falling ill whilst praying at the shrine of Edward the Confessor in the Abbey, Henry was taken unconscious to lie by the fire. He was en-route for Jerusalem where he was going to atone for his sins. When he recovered consciousness, he asked where he was and being told "The Jerusalem Chamber", he realised that he was about to end his life according to a prophecy in the Holinshed Chronicles that he would die in Jerusalem.
Shakespeare says:
"It hath been prophesied to me many years,
I should not die but in Jerusalem,
Which vainly I suppos’d the Holy Land.
But bear me to that chamber, there I’ll lie,
In that Jerusalem shall Harry die."
The Jerusalem Chamber was also where the committee met regularly, who overlooked the creation of the beautifully written King James Bible - one of the most influential books ever written and where many celebrated people such as Isaac Newton were laid out before being buried in the Abbey.
Our excellent guides, Patricia Braithwaite and Avril Gardener weaved us through throngs of visitors, highlighting the story behind the grave of the Unknown Soldier and the spaces reserved for scientific and literary figures irrespective of whether they were religious or not - including a recent arrival, Stephen Hawking. Other new additions were the David Hockney stained glass window which includes a hawthorn bush in flower. This is a resonant historical reference as hawthorn bushes almost certainly formed the brambles which gave Thorney Island its name. At the end of the tour, some members enjoyed the fantasic views from the Triforium and fine exhibits in the Galleries. Our huge thanks to the Dean and all those who made this tour so special.
Special Tour of Westminster Abbey - July 2019
Gems of Thorney Island, A Walk by Victor Keegan - July 2019
On a sun-soaked Saturday, committee member Victor Keegan led members on a guided walk around Thorney Island. It was the hottest day of the year in London and Victor heroically negotiated the group around a demonstration on Parliament Square, through the masses of tourists circling Westminster Abbey and kept a cool voice as helicopters whirred overhead.
Victor's two-hour guided walk of this unique area took the group to 20 places of historical interest reflecting vivid moments in the nation's story. Amongst other fascinating 'gems', we saw Oliver Cromwell facing Charles I and 'a grave above ground', both sites, commuters, tourists, residents and local workers walk by every day and fail to notice.
"Look up" we were urged and saw a white plaque to Ignatius Sancho, former slave, writer and symbol of the humanity of Africans, hardly visible on the vast expanse of Whitehall walls. Victor's scholarship made this a memorable experience for the group which ended at the Thorney Island Society archives in 'Devils Acre' and much needed cool drinks.
Gems of Thorney Island - A Walk by Victor Keegan, July 2019
Victoria Tower Gardens, poem by Elizabeth Witts
This Royal Park beside the River Thames
Is an oasis full of shady trees
Within the sound of Big Ben's steady chimes.
Young people have their picnics on the grass
Or sit on benches by the Embankment wall
To watch the gulls and cormorants fly by.
A fountain honours anti-slavery,
The children have a playground to themselves
And visitors go back to work refreshed
By all the peace and beauty of this place.
Victoria Tower Gardens, poem by Elizabeth Witts 2019